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When curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. However, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble place securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary honour.